Use a block of Asian (Thai) tamarind rather than the Indian kind. It's usually thicker, softer, and easier to work with.

INGREDIENTS

4 oz piece tamarind from a pliable block*
3/4 cup hot water
1/4 cup packed jaggery date sugar* (4 oz; if necessary, chop to measure) or packed dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon anise seeds
1/2 teaspoon hot chile powder* (preferably Indian)
1/2 teaspoon salt

Special equipment: an electric coffee/spice grinder

PREPARATION

Gently mash tamarind with water in a small bowl until pulp is softened. Force pulp through a sieve into a 2- to 3-quart saucepan, pressing on and then discarding seeds and thick fibers. Add sugar and cook over low heat, stirring, just until sugar is dissolved, then return mixture to cleaned bowl.

Toast coriander, cumin, and anise seeds in a small skillet over moderate heat, stirring, until fragrant and a shade darker, about 2 minutes. Cool completely, then finely grind in grinder. Stir spices into tamarind mixture along with chile powder and salt.

Cooks' note:
Sweet tamarind chutney can be made 2 days ahead and chilled, covered.

*Available at Indian markets and Kalustyan's (800-352-3451). Makes about 3/4 cup.

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