Grits (made from dried hulled hominy) are at the heart of many a southern breakfast. Texture is the hallmark of good grits — they should be slightly loose but not too runny on the plate.

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 1 1/4 hr

INGREDIENTS

5 1/2 cups water
1 cup white old-fashioned stone-ground grits
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 lb tasso (Cajun-cured smoked pork) or country ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter

Accompaniment: fried eggs

PREPARATION

Bring 4 cups water to a boil in a 4-quart heavy saucepan and stir in grits and salt. Return to a boil, stirring frequently.

Reduce heat and simmer grits, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until very thick and most of water is absorbed, about 10 minutes.

Reduce heat further and cook grits at a bare simmer until cooked through, about 1 hour 10 minutes, stirring frequently and adding remaining 1 1/2 cups water (1/4 cup at a time) whenever grits become very thick.

Add tasso, butter, and salt and pepper to taste, stirring until butter is melted. Serves 4.

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